Trekking Tirana.

First thing after breaky in the lobby was to hunt down a Vodafone shop for another Sim for this device. After some redirection managed that one successfully. Took another visit to another shop to get it working though (home number completely disabled whilst we're here due to something somewhere being set somehow to some situation). Data and local calls are now good though and we found someone local to call to. That being the spa in the hotel.

And so we set off for the long trek into the centre of the city. Originally unaware of how far out the hotel is situated it was becoming clearer as the walk along the busy, noisy crowed street seemed to go on forever (well maybe not like crossing the Nulabor, but it did take a while). Eventually we emerged from the commercial chaos of everyday Albanian life into the city Square where it's pretty obvious that this is the focal point of the place. We were here to join thevwalking tour previously booked and were quite surprised with the number of participants milling around on the steps of the Opera house. All good though, they greeted us, segregated us into language groups and then split the English listeners into 3 more as we are so prolific (thus annoying). We got lucky because we got Clint (named after the actor) who is extremely passionate about his city and country and has a vast store of valuable information to pass on to his willing trekkers.

The insights into the history of the place were fascinating and the lessons to be learnt from them of value to any citizen of any country in the world. Especially those that think its a good idea to vote in someone who fundamentally who uses patriotism as their basic platform. The ensuing decades of general societal degradation were appalling, however after 30 years since the downfall of the regime the place has finally got its mojo and firing along. Tourism is now the biggest economic driver and here we are. Second generation visitors (thanks to OS no.2 suggestion) and throwing the cash around in gleeful abandon and hopefully everyone wins. 3 million live here. Last year 16 million visited. This year...20 is the prediction.

They are not immune from the issues associated with all these numbers of course e.g. we were approached by an American lady in our group that happily told as that she was living here for a year... because she's a Jahova Wittnes. And this is a cheap place to "live" in. Suspect Clints intelligent explanation of the success of the separation of the church and state would have been lost on her. We chose not to explore the conversation more with her though as we were too busy consuming all the other info that was being presented as we continued to tread tracks around Tirana.
Clint is verye enthusiastic about his country joining the EU. It would certainly make it easier for the modern invading hordes if they did so (e.g. phones would work seamlessly whilst still keeping the British in the "other counties" queue at passport control... thanks to Brexit).
Past invading hordes followed the same pattern as the rest if their neighbors, Roman's, Ottomans, Venetians, German backed Italians etc etc before the communist dictators of 19th century. Not sure about the Spanish, Portuguese or the Poms if they ever made it this far, suspect they may have been sailing around the other side of the planet as their focus. Never mind were here for a week - plenty of time to find out.
Given their history the locals are very welcoming of all religions (as the communists squashed all with particularly nasty fervor), one example of their acceptance is a particularly famous and pretty street where they celebrate nations from all over world one week at a time.

A favorite recently was Egypt who set up mummies and other Pharoah stuff. Currently it was Israel's turn (could tell by the flags). When queried, our guide could not actually describe what cultural artifacts they had put up, (guess it was a bit cheeky)  - when prompted further (given current situations in Gaza) but he did say that Palestine had been represented recently. Nicely played.
We can only hope they can manage to navigate the fine line of keeping a balance of happiness through appeasing most people. Thinking that given their societal memories are still full of raw angst they may become becons of hope for those of us who have inadvertently forgotten these lessons over generations.

We visited a few churches along the way. No one is barred due to their get along attitude.
The days are warming up as we head south (pack away the jeans for while now) and are about to get a whole lot warmer. And so after leaving the tour we were tired and thirsty, best option let's go sit in the sky bar. It was superb. Slowly being spun around high up above the city the landscape ever so slowly rolled by as we consumed refreshing local beverages at bargain prices.

Sat there for almost an hour (3/4 of a full rotation) before hitting the streets again. Step count going up, legs weakening, day getting hotter. Trekked over to the otherside to get a memory card for the slow TV and then back along the endless confusion of a crazy town (well, we don't know what they're saying) with a multitude of people going everywhere for no apparent reason. Impressed that the major thoroughfares have tree-lined bycle paths running the length of them. Much more ameniable than ugly trams.
Back at the safe house we had a quick kip before a 30 min massage in the previously mentioned spa. It's on our floor directly opposite our room. How could that be resisted?

After another visit to the rooftop we left the view of the sun gently brushing the majestic hills which loom over the locale to wander down the street in search for dinner and ended up with pizza. Given they've been invaded 3 times by the Italians over history they reckon they can do it better. One tends to agree.