Out and about in Sigiriya

Today was a by choice early start. Up at 5:00am and into the car with our brown bag breakfast at 5:30. This was all in order to beat the heat and the crowds as we tackled the awesome rock formation called Sigiriya. Leaving in the dark, the early morning roads were completely lifeless apart from all the dogs we woke up and moved on as we motored over their beds (animal lovers don't be alarmed...they choose to sleep on the roads). Arriving at our destination right on time it to find it closed for an extra 30 mins due to the public holidays. Everything is in wind down for the week due to this holiday. There are bonuses and disadvantages holidaying in Sri Lanka when they are holidaying as well. Roads are quiet but we don't get to experience the full chaos that others would. Currently we are running at a rate of 1 pantstaining, 5 ohshits and 10 youvegottobekiddings per day. Expect this to increase next week when the holidays are over. Our 30 minute delay was filled with entertaining dog fights as the local mangy beasts argued about who should escort the first visitors into the complex.

Thanks to our good planning this happened to be us. We were overtaken quickly (a slight pause for a photo shoot started another dog barney which made us realise that the beasts here have no respect for human authority), no issue though as racing up the countless steps is not a good idea. The morning heat was bareable as we were in the shade of the rock. I can't imagine how horrible it would be in the afternoon sun beating down with the hordes jostling for position on the steep narrow climb. Even our eminently knowledgeable botanist guide was sweating profusely as we made our way up. Apart from naming every species of flora in the country so far he reckons the whole edifice is 40 meters high. Me thinks he means 400. Ok then ... For the first time ever in this blog..fact check..it actually 200 meters. Not going to cross check his knowledge of tree names though. Life is too short. Once we'd struggled our way up countless steps, clung to the sides of overhanging cliffs we pantingly reached the Lion Gate. Very Impressive.

Acient money was splashed around here. The king who decided he wanted to live on top of the rock was most likely a looney. Well...he was running away from the people he deposed so it probably did seem like a good idea at the time. It's not surprising that 24 years later they gave up ruling from the lofty hights and came back down to earth. Leaving behind significant infrastructure for the monks to take up residence and subsequently be closer to their deity than anyone else. How they scaled the cliffs without the modern metal staircases we used is a mystery. It's not for the faint hearted that's for sure, but once one has navigated the steep narrow tressels overhanging certain death (if you let go and say - jumped) the view from the top is truly spectacular. The ruins are very impressive. The king even had his own baths (bit of a theme coming out here).

So we wandered all over the ruin covered crown of the plug for a while before braving the decent. Slowly but steadily the throngs were starting pour up the monument as we slipped our sweaty way down past them. A very worthwhile experience, made all the better by watching a baby monkey chew on a car attenna when we were leaving. Back to the compound, we consumed the contents of the brown bags in our room before catching up on lost sleep before the next adventure. This was a mish mash of experiences that somehow flowed together. A short drive to a local entrepreneurs house we sat around confused for a while whilst our bilingal guide talked in foreign tounge to a variety of people hangin' around seemingly participating in our future entertainment. Eventually a TukTuk arrived and we had short stint in that. This was actually good fun. The driver was disabled and had the vehicle modified to suit his needs. Whilst we couldn't understand a word he was saying he's probably been the most genuinely friendliest person we've come across so far. Deposited in the middle of seemingly nowhere we trecked off through burnt padi fields spotting the occasional tree house. The locals sleep on these raised platforms in order to stay safe from, and harass elephants that come in and try to devour their livelihoods. Eventually we walked up an embankment which defined a lake, covered in water lillies. This lake is relatively new according to our knowledgeable archeologist guide. Build in the 1500's by king Whatshisname. These king's must have been totally exhausted lifting all those rocks and digging all that dirt. We were greeted on the levy by our catamaran punter who also ended up being our host in his local farm. Our rowing championships winning guide helped him paddle out through the greenery and across the serene waters of the lake - all whilst the amplified booming voice of the local festival drifted over to us. Apparently all the locals were there so once again we had the place to ourselves but we're possibly missing out on the normal experience.

After receiving our delightful lotus leaf hats we paddled back across the water to his house where he and his wife showed us their subsistence existence. Still in two minds about this. The kitchen, the cooking skills, the buildings, the farm/garden, the coconut frond weaving etc. all seemed totaly genuine. Once again we were the only guests as even their two daughters were over at the festival. It just seems a little wierd that our minimalist hosts mobile phone kept ringing. In hindsight there is no way he could have charged it at his house... Anyway - it certainly was a highlight. We learnt (and poorly attempted) the process of turning rice into flour and the resulting roti was a taste sensation. As was the beverage and accompanying coconut sweets. A short punt back to levy found us walking a significant length of it. Totally alone. Oppressive heat. Just the three of us. A blogger, a non-blogger and a knoweverything guide strolling along a ancient mound of dirt defining the difference between parched rice paddies and the lake which will fill them in few short weeks. It was almost poetic that a Bullock cart was waiting to pick us up to continue the journey.

They didn't seem overly happy with their lot, the non-blogger in particular was not happy about their lack of enthusiasm for the task of stomping over familiar ground for the umpteenth time dragging an outdated rickety buggy weighed down by strange smelling people who wave around black devices that make wierd noises.... "Oh for the life of wandering aimlessly around in green pastures unhindered by that annoying dolt with his long stick...well at least he does feed us, and I do get to spend the day with Larry - sure he's brown whilst I'm white but he did teach me this great trick of filicking annoying flies of my back with my tail..." Showing her stamina for putting up with cultural experiences which grate her sensibilities Non-blogger didn't pull the pin and persisted as the bumpy ride took us through the back blocks of the area. Narrow dirt roads lined by an array of run down yet obviously respected homes. All eerily abandoned whilst the inhabitants were off at the local festival - hopefully comprehending what that dude with the microphone was bellowing out that we'd heard earlier whilst on the lake. Abruptly the bullocks stopped and we alighted. Ahead on the hill at the top of the dirt track was a silent local boy who simply assumed we would follow him as he turned and walked away without any talking, eye contact or other communication. A short while later he diverted left onto a smaller winding dirt track. Our knowledgeable guide got distracted with a dangerous dead overhanging branch, so whilst he dealt with that we followed our sullen silent guide until we came upon another locally built kitchen. These are constructed of mud brick walls, palm frond thatched roofs and cow dung smeared flooring. A perfect example of architecture matching the environment. Can't wait for the Grand Designs episode. We were meant to be treated to a cooking lesson and following lunch here, luckily there were a few other tourists in already and so we were happy to have a quick sample of (yes - unbelievablly so) a buffet of various courses they'd previously prepared. All served on banana leaves and eaten without utensils. This is where homework comes in. I.e. wash your hands before and after, use certain fingers on a certain hand, keep the other one for.....never mind. As it transpired we had done a full loop and this authentic rustic abode was in the back yard of the previously mentioned entrepreneurs house, so a few seconds later we were back in our car with our transformed botanist taking up the guise of rally driver once again. Finally success at the ATM (using card that works) and a stop at the "hotel" to purchase a couple of local beers from a guy behind a metal grate and we headed back to the compound. Swim, social media contribution, dinner (buffet - without roaming minstrels - yay!) and hit the sack. It was a long day.