Friday, April 19, 2019
Ever upwards
The roar of the river whilst we tossed and turned was loudly consistent all night. Tried thinking of more pleasant things it could be instead of a raging torrent rising rapidly due to deluges further up the valley and potentially washing us downstream and thus making us worthy items for the six o'clock bulletins around the world. Maybe a major highway? Or a roaring ocean? Or a strong wind blowing outside the tent as we are perched on the side of mountain in the Himalayas? Nup none of those. Nothing relaxing comes to mind so it's just easier to accept the fact that it's not really raining that hard. Seriously the place was an absolute delight. Definitely a low star rating but probably a better one in this neck of the woods. E.g. we did see upstream they actually had 2-man tents on the equivalent balconies to ours. As we slept in by an hour the breakfast was a bit rushed and solitary as the other family and long passed through. Fascinating to see the accommodation sheets being washed in the river in the morning. He was doing a great job because they didn't appear to be same colour as the water. We got nicely stung on the way out by having to pay about $160 for the 4 glasses of wine last night. No it wasn't that good. We just didn't ask how much it cost before consuming it. So they stung us and ain't nuttin we could do about it.
Our driver guide was pressing to get to Hatton on time to meet the train and thus be conductor guide. Up and up we wound our way through steep green valleys covered in tea plantations and the occasional gum tree (need to check this... Grey Gums in SriLanka?). The trip was not stressful in that the roads were relatively clear. What was stressful was if we would catch the train at all and then if our tickets were being couriered adequately on it. Seems like there was a bucket load if background activity going on to make this seemlessly happen. So we arrived at Hatton Station an hour early to find the train was running an hour late due to the public holiday (every stop was taking 10 mins longer than necessary due to all the people offing and oning). Given the amount waiting already, chaos was expected 2 hours later. So we had a couple of hours to kill and we did this nicely thanks to our walking guide turned shopping guide again as we popped in and out of various shops, creating much delight for locals who thought it was often hilarious for a white lady asking for linen pants. Probably reminded them of old TV shows based on when the Poms ruled the place.
Apart from the carnage they caused, those English did some serious societal uplift here. Introducing the tea industry, hydro electricity and the trains are some examples. Whist we waiting for ours 2 hours later, Non-blogger was being contuously approached by local kids who wanted photos, pen pal addresses and to get sent transformer toys. Sounds entirely rational when one considers the hat. Our ticket conductor guide was visibly praying that he'd be able to concoct our tickets out of train when it arrived. And he did alomst out of thin air (well a window actually) and we then had a fun time pushing through the bustling embarking and disembarking fully packed platform to get up the front. "First Class don't you know, get out of the way peasants - we're in First Class". First class has the advantage of being right behind possibly the loudest diesel engine on the planet. Along with well worn rails and carriages from the seventies it was a reasonably noisy trip. And great fun. Trying to get the best photos of the emerging and quickly disappearing vistas, at one stage we had both sides of the train covered. Until others realised you could sit in empty seats and not get thrown off. All the doorways were packed with people enjoying the views and fresh wind blowing past them. It was sardines back in the other classes but cordial up our end. When the inevitable rain came down that pretty much stifled the photo shoot so we sat back enjoyed the views as we climbed ever higher and higher... wondering if we'd missed our stop (would've been an interesting outcome). We didn't and the mountains became even more spectacular covered in rain and mist, creating a mutli-tonal landscape of wonder, intrigue and possibilities. Arriving at Nanu Oya (which we could not have possibly missed due to the ensuing chaos again) it was quite cool - down to 22 degrees and a welcome treat compared to down below. Thus is why they call this place Little England and why all the locals flock here on holidays. Did I mention it was holidays here?. Apart from the late train this is why they are not serving alcohol in the restaurants (again) and probably why the room fridge can't be fixed. Apart from that, the hotel we are in (Nuwara Eliya) is quite spectacular. It is meant to be 5 star and is very well appointed. Fake log fire heater, viewing window into the shower, lots of room with comfy sitting chairs and writing desk... Interesting mindset though - who wants bathroom scales when on holiday ? - great way to ruin all the fun...
It has carpet on the floor and views remincent of Bali. In that it's built on the top of the locals rice paddies and we get to look out at down trodden homes which house the local farmers, and which (I suspect) we'll be able to lord it over when their holidays are finished and they get back on the job. At least the kids just across the gully are enjoying themselves watching all the action going on in here.
We are seriously high up, spectacular views from the balcony into the valleys and across to the untouched mountains beyond. Suspect that's where we are heading early in the morning. Our buffet dinner was definitely a step up. Actually enjoyable. The blogger had a selection of local curries which attracted a sweat and the adrimration from the "Leader of the House" (according to his card) and Non-blogger had bland (Little) English fare which pretty much drew his scorn. Luckily he didn't loiter for too long so we missed the opportunity to point out it all would be so much better with a glass of red. Luckily also we're here for two nights. So strange as it seems - we're now looking forward to tomorrow night's buffet. The pending 4:30am start not so much. The next adventure yes. Eventually we will get to sleep in.
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1 comment:
Don't fall for the gold and silver tea on sale at the tea factory if you go there. It's even more expensive than the wine!
The train trip sounds like lots of fun!
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