Edge of the war zone

A pleasant surprise greated us for breakfast. Our hotel in Negombo was situated right on a beautiful beach. Aptly named Goldi Sands they were indeed that colour.

Sunday morning and the first day of the locals new year. All is quiet on new year's day. This was very evident as we headed across the island, expertly carriaged by our driver, chauffeur and tour guide for the next two weeks. Suman is full of interesting facts and insights into the local culture and there will be an attempt to put them into perspective over the ensuing blogs (pls note facts here are not checked and, more often than not, exaggerated just for the fun of it). As we headed out of the busy roads we left the Christan quarter and slowly but surely the roads got a bit faster. This place is an interesting mix of the old and new. Many delapidated and empty buildings. Most of the construction seems to have happened 40 to 50 years ago so the infrastructure looks run down whilst strewn with new signs selling everyday life. There is greenery everywhere. Very typical tropical environment with the hot humidity making us from the dry cool climes sweating profusely if we move too much. Expect climatisation will take a day or two and then we'll be looking like normal humans again instead of the dripping galoots or air-conditioning control freaks that we started out being. The drive over to Sigiriya was very interesting as we slowly extracted culturally significant information from our courier. The local holiday was a blessing (not sure from which God, as they have variety here) in that the roads were clear(ish) with most shops being closed and everyone was either inside fasting or wandering in and out of worship places - all dressed in their finery. Mostly white, so we saw many locals on the side of the road glowing in the bright tropical light. Winding our way between spectacular volcanic plugs the landscape slowly browned out a little as we entered the dry zone and significant armed forces became visible. This is the edge of the war zone where the victors based themselves to drive out (sorry ...wipe out) the insurgents up north. This all happened 10 years ago and the country is now democraticly united - even the recalectrant separatists have a voice in parliament. Of course not everyone is 100% happy but it's much better than individuals blowing themselves up on public buses and we (the tourists) get to come in and help re-start the societal building process. Our resort (ne:armored compound) is quite exotic and we are very happy to be here for the next 3 nights. A relaxing afternoon catching up on timezone differences followed by lounge around and in the infinity pool was a welcome wind down.

It's curious that due to some wierd local custom the bar is closed today and no alcoholic drinks served - even at dinner in the compound restaurant. Those knowing us well enough would appreciate the fact that this obstacle was easily overcome. Dinner at this restaurant was akin to that at the one at the end of the universe - complete with the singing minstrels playing their instruments so loudly in one's ear that the question did arise "how much to pay these guys to away?". The only things missing were Pan Galactic Gargle Blasters and (as far as we know) the actual end of it all. Tomorrow will tell. And so as night sky blossoms with the boom of fireworks we can only hope that they no longer contain napalm or shrapnel and are just indeed people celebrating their joyous existence.